Thank you and latest update

Junior, Ashley and I would each like to extend our heartfelt thanks to all of you who have rallied behind us in making an immediate respose to the cholera outbreak in Jacmel. Over the past two weeks since first putting out a call to action, we have been both encouraged and humbled by the compassion and generosity of our friends and families, and of so many former GVN Haiti volunteers.

Donations and support have poured in from all over the world, and so far, you have entrusted us with over $4000, with many of you promising even more. We have witnessed many make great personal sacrifices in order to give, and have been inspired to see a number of you undertaking fundraising efforts of your own. You have far exceeded our initial expectations, and have enabled us to be able to deliver loads of essential medications and IV fluids to various clinics throughout Jacmel. There is also a supply of nearly 300 pounds of rehydration salts (ORS) that has just arrived in Jacmel from the Dominican Republic, all thanks to your generosity.

Many of you have been asking for news on the current state of the sistuation here. Since our last update, the number of cholera cases in Jacmel has surpassed 2800. UNICEF and Save the Children have mobilized in the area and are responsible for delivering ORS to Saint Michel hospital and to the Doctors Without Borders clinics set up throughout the city. Fortunately, now that the roads between Jacmel and Port-au-Prince have opened up again, these organizations are able to do a better job at keeping up with the demand of patients and ensuring that there are enough supplies in stock. Further, there has been a plan enacted this week to begin distibuting ORS out of the 5 major port cities in Haiti rather than solely out of Port-au-Prince, which should greatly increase UNICEF's effectiveness in providing supplies to Jacmel in a timely manner. However, it is important to note that even with these changes, smaller towns outside of the city are still left at particular risk, and mortality rates in these areas remain very high.

The primary shortages now are largely in clean water and in education. And it is these two areas, unfortunately, that are truly the main fronts on which fight against cholera must be won; without these two things, cholera will only continue to spread and people will continue to die unnecessary deaths. Treatment is of course critical, but, even with access to an endless supply of IV fluid, rehydration salts, clinics and beds, the situation cannot improve unless individuals and families are both educated on cholera prevention and have regular access to clean water. This is why, moving forward, we plan to focus on doing our part to help provide for these two essential needs in Jacmel and its surrounding communities.

One of the main ways that we will accomplish this is through our involvement with Konpay, a community development organization that has operated in the rural areas of Jacmel since 2004, and has, since the very first case of cholera hit Haiti, been doing great work in the areas of clean water and cholera prevention. Konpay's approach is one that focuses on building sustainability, and by partnering with them, we will be able to ensure that the money that we have raised and that we continue to recieve will make a long-term impact on the overall health of the community.

For those of you who are looking for ways to continue to help fight against cholera in Jacmel, or who want to spread the word to others on ways that they can help moving forward, here is an updated list of needs and projects:


(1) If you are planning to travel to Haiti with supplies in the coming months, one thing we request that you bring, and believe to be even more important than ORS at this time, are Aquatabs. These are tablets used to purify water and are readily available in the States and in Europe. Once we recieve these, it is our hope not only to distribute them to those who desperately need them, but also to launch a campaign that will combine Aquatab distribution with education on proper execution of preventative measures against cholera.


(2) Kompay has a team of Haitian American doctors coming in at the end of January to set up clinics that will fill in the gaps of need in rural areas overlooked by larger organizations like Doctors without Borders. This medical team will also be participating in a targeted donation matching campaign, in an effort to double the donations that we have already recieved. For their time in Haiti, they will be in need of specific medical supplies. If you are interested in bringing or sending these over, shoot me an email (mary.hooke@gmail.com) or stay tuned to facebook over the next few days. A full wish list will be uploaded as soon as possible.

If you are interested in gathering supplies to send, but cannot deliver them yourself, please email us (jacmelcholerainitiative@gmail.com) or contact another volunteer planning to travel to Haiti in the near future (see posted events on facebook).


(3) For those of you who are planning on coming in to Jacmel for more than just a day and wish to offer hands-on assistance while here, we have a number of options in the works, including distribution of supplies, conducting cholera education classes, and building clean water wells. You may also have the option of coming as a formal volunteer with Konpay. If you're interested in volunteering your time, please contact me directly to further discuss your options and to coordinate the details of your stay (mary.hooke@gmail.com /US +19193603899/ Haiti +50938950658).


(4) We are still in need of monetary donations to help us meet the needs in our community. We've recently been made aware that Bainet, a small province in the mountains outside of Jacmel and home to much of Junior's family, has just been hit hard by cholera and is suffering greatly from a lack of adequate clean water and medical supplies. Our contact at Doctors Without Borders has affirmed that money to purchase meds and IV fluids for that community will undoubtedly save many lives. Additionally, there are a number of local public schools, especially in rural areas, with no access to clean water. Donation money can go towards building wells for these schools, as well as towards the purchase, transport and delivery of special water purification kits developed and sponsored by Iowa University, which utilise water and electical currents to make chlorine.


If you would like your donation money to go toward any one specific project or effort, please don't hesitate to designate that when filling out the paypal donation form, or let us know via email.

You can also support our efforts against cholera by giving, or directing others to give, directly to Konpay. Check them out here: http://www.konpay.org/about

As always, please let me know if you have any questions or ideas on how we can work together to help fight this epidemic. Thank you so much for your continued support and investment in the healing and health of Jacmel!

Video: Stop Cholera in Jacmel

Urgent Need in Jacmel, Haiti

Cholera has finally hit here in Jacmel, and it has hit hard. Over the course of the past three days, the hospitals and clinics here have been struggling to accommodate the growing number of cholera cases and are running short on supplies. As a result, over a hundred people have already died unnecessary deaths.

In order to help fight this epidemic over the coming weeks and months, my team members Ashley (NC), Junior (Haiti) and I are currently working together to set up a Jacmel Cholera Prevention and Treatment Fund, in order for people to be able to donate money that will go directly to supplying the needed treatment for cholera and supplies for cholera prevention in our city.

In the meantime, however, people in our community are dying preventable deaths every day, due to a lack of fluids and proper medication. If you are willing and able, please consider helping us take *immediate* action against this epidemic in one of the following ways:

(1) Send donations directly through Western Union.

Due to election-related demonstrations, many parts of downtown Jacmel are shut down this week, and I unfortunately do not have access to my bank account. However, I can still pick up money from Western Union. Sending money this way will enable Ashley, Junior and I to go out immediately and buy IV solution, azythromycin, and doxycycline-- all essential for the treatment of cholera, and all available in and around our city. We will then be able to deliver these materials to the appropriate medical facilities-- including but not limited to Jacmel's Saint-Michel Hospital, a nearby emergency cholera rehydration clinic, and a Cuban hospital in the neighboring city of Cayes Jacmel.

(2) Give through PayPal.

One of the absolute most important supplies needed for the treatment of cholera is rehydration salts. The bacteria itself is not what kills people-- it is severe dehydration that causes death. Unfortunately, rehydration salts are not available in Jacmel, and are in short supply at the hospitals here, as they are forced to rely solely on donations from outside the country. In order to get these materials to medical centers in Jacmel as soon as possible, I plan to travel to Miami next weekend (December 17th) to purchase the rehydration salts, and will return to Haiti to deliver them before coming back to the states on December 22nd. This is the most cost effective and secure way to get medical supplies into the country and directly into the hands of the people that need them most, especially given the urgency and time-sensitive nature of the need here. Any money sent to my PayPal account will go towards buying this precious supply and delivering it to the medical facilities in Jacmel.

To give through PayPal, click on the button below:

(3) Invite others to help.

If you know anyone who you think would have a desire to give, or to transport materials to Haiti, please do not hesitate to pass this email on or to send them my contact information. You can also invite them to follow our efforts on facebook by joining the group "Help Fight Cholera in Jacmel, Haiti."

If you have any questions or want more information on the situation here, feel free to email or to call me anytime at 1 (919) 360 3899. It is a US originating number, and so will be free of international charges for those of you who are US residents. You can also find me on Skype under the name mary.hooke.

Thank you for your love and concern for the people of Haiti, and for your continued prayers and support.

With appreciation and hope,
Mary

Episode 1: Haiti | Explore22

Leaving on Tuesday! Click on the link below to check out a video documentary created by one former volunteer working at my placement site in Haiti-- you can see where I will be living and working for the next three months, and find out what kinds of projects are happening on the ground.

Episode 1: Haiti Explore22

Un/Re/Packing

Now with just over a week ahead of me before I set foot in Port-au-Prince, Haiti for the first time, I am scrambling to get everything that I don't need for the next few months into storage and to re-pack the things that I will need in the most minimalist but functional way possible. Typically, I am one who tends to overpack, and yet still somehow fail to be prepared with the things that I need the most-- which might very well make me the worst kind of traveller. Fortunately, though, this time I have been provided with a detailed packing list and a plethora of advice from those already on the ground on what to bring and (just as important) what not to bring.

I expect that the reality of Haiti's current situation will throw into sharp relief the materialism and greed in my own heart, and I can't help but wonder as I pack how I am later going to feel about all of this time and energy spent on choosing, and often purchasing, the "right things" to take along. For now, I feel that I am being practical, but I do wonder how my perspective on what is practical or necessary will change after spending some time in Haiti.

*A small snapshot of a few of the "essentials" that I am carrying with me to Haiti:*

Prayer book: Laminated so as to remain durable during the Haitian rainy season (thanks to my kindergarten teacher friend!), and signed by all of the ladies in my women's group from Korea, this book is filled with hand-written messages to remind me that our God is infinitely great and loving, and that He never leaves us alone, not even for a minute; that even in our moments of greatest loneliness and despair, He is never far away. Along with this gift, the ladies also gifted me a signed tie die t-shirt, so that I can keep a reminder of their love wrapped closely around my heart anytime I feel the need. These items are precious to me.

-Antimalarials and mosquito nets: These items are also precious to me, for very different reasons. Remaining healthy and able to work will be a constant prayer of mine over the next three months. Outbreaks of malaria, dengue fever, and other diseases have been growing steadily in the wake of the quake, and with the slow pace of reconstruction and the onslought of the rainy season, it does not seem likely that this trend will be changing anytime soon. In taking the necessary precautions and with the knowledge of my friends' and family's prayers for protection behind me, however, I feel comfortable that I am not taking any unneccesary risks.


-Hiking boots, a cot, and a raincoat: What do these three items have in common? They are all essentials to surving the oft-referenced Hatian rainy season, of which the country will reach it's peak during my stay. You've probably heard by now that this hurricane season is slated to potentially be among the most severe in recent history. With an estimated 1.3 million persons displaced and living in conditions that leave them extremely vulnerable to the elements, even a smaller storm could potentially have devastating consequences. I hope that you will join me in vigilantly praying against this, because another destructive natural disaster is really the last thing that Haiti needs or is prepared to tolerate right now.


-Clothing and vitamin donations from The Summit: This coming Sunday my home church campus is holding a donation drive for my trip to Haiti. I wrote a short post for the Summit West Club Campus blog to announce my trip, and have been asked by the campus pastor there to continue to write updates throughout my time in Haiti. The community at that particular campus has expressed a desire to cover my trip in prayer, and will be setting aside time at the end of each service this Sunday to pray for me and the work in which I'll be participating. I am so blessed and challenged by the generous display of Christ's love that I have experienced in my church, even after being away for so long. And even more beautiful is the fact that I will be able to take the Summit's donations with me to Haiti in my luggage thanks to funds provided by members of my church family in Korea to cover the excess baggage fees. I have been doubly blessed to have found such wonderful community in two distant parts of the world who are each so willing to care for me even when I am physically separated from them by countries, continents and months at a time. I am excited to share their love and care with the people of Haiti.


- Messages from Korean Children: In my final weeks of leading summer camps at Choji Middle school, I showed my students a video of Haiti, and I talked with them about my trip and what I plan to do while I am there. I then gave them the opportunity to respond by writing or drawing notes to convey messages of solidarity with the the children of Haiti, which I plan to hand deliver to the kids that I will be working with.

In yellow: "I hope your country will heal soon and grow strong."

Top 5 things....

... that I miss most about Korea!

5. Hearing a mixture of k-pop and 90s pop music a-la the Backstreet Boys playing in most coffee shops and restaurants.

4. Free internet available in any and every open public space.

3. Cutesy dancing, cartoons and costumes being considered appropriate for any and all situations (remember, this includes campaigning for national elections).

2. Getting in my daily dose of kimchi. Ridiculously addicting.

And last but DEFININTELY not least,

1. The PEOPLE.

I will carry with me forever from my first year in Korea memories and friendships that have left a permanent mark on my heart. Everyone from my co-workers and my precious students, to the people that I volunteered with, to the friends and family members who became my network of love and support for my time overseas-- even down to the couple who ran the corner store down the street from my apartment, and the lady who spoke perfect English at the bank-- meant so much to me. Each in their own way played a special role in God's shaping, challenging and changing me over the past year, and I am so thankful to Him for bringing them into my life, and for allowing me to be a small part of theirs.

COMING HOME!

A big part of living life in another country is learning to deal with being separated-- by distance, and even time-- from so many of the people that you care about. This struggle becomes especially potent at times when you know that your loved ones are facing particularly difficult challenges in their lives. In response to these times, God has used this year to stretch my faith and trust in His love and provision for the people that I care for... and it has truly been a blessing, but it has definitely not always been easy.

It is mainly for this reason that I am very thankful to be able to come back home about five days earlier than I had originally planned-- this TUESDAY July 27th. Time is precious, and valuable, so I am really looking forward to having those extra days to spend time with my family and close friends. While I have grown to really love and appreciate Skype-- and even believe that Skype relationships and distance can in many ways grow and strengthen the bonds between people in unique ways-- I have always greatly valued physical presence and sought it out if at all possible. Whether we are celebrating, fighting, comforting or mourning, if I can be physically present with a person I care for, I want to be. Even if it is 2 a.m. and I need to drive an hour to get to them. Body language, touch and eye contact are powerful communicators for me, and they are ones that I can't wait to share (oh-so-soon!) with the people at home that I love most!

I have a post in mind to say farewell to my first year in Korea-- because I'm going to miss this place a lot!-- but I will have to save it for a little later. I will be without internet access from now until the time that I leave, so this will be the last that you hear from me until I am stateside!!!

With LOTS of love and EXCITEMENT,

Mary

Sweet tea, pecan pie and homemade wine

"In the South, the breeze blows softer...neighbors are friendlier, nosier, and more talkative. (By contrast with the Yankee, the Southerner never uses one word when ten or twenty will do)...This is a different place. Our way of thinking is different, as are our ways of seeing, laughing, singing, eating, meeting and parting. Our walk is different, as the old song goes, our talk and our names. Nothing about us is quite the same as in the country to the north and west."
--Charles Kuralt in "Southerners: Portrait of a People"

"All I can say is that there's a sweetness here, a Southern sweetness, that makes sweet music... If I had to tell somebody who had never been to the South, who had never heard of soul music, what it was, I'd just have to tell them that it's music from the heart, from the pulse, from the innermost feeling. That's my soul; that's how I sing. And that's the South."
--Al Green

This week, as I begin the process of preparing for the trip back home, I am finding myself getting downright giddy-- not at the thought of being back in the United States, but at the thought of being back in the South. This sentiment has come as a surprise to many of my friends here, who don't necessarily view me as a very stereotypically southern kind of girl. And truthfully, the extent of my longing for the South has come as a bit of a surprise to me as well.

But southern culture is COMFORT to me. Its what I associate with a sense of HOME. And there is nothing like travel to bring that appreciation and sense of belonging to light. Southern summers have grown idyllic in my memory. Nights spent under the stars on Carolina beaches, country music concerts on the lawn at Walnut Creek, barn parties, family reunions, and barbecues (the kind where you smoke a whole pig and gather everyone you know to help you eat it)-- where cold beer, smiles, and slow conversation are always available in plenty... my heart feels at home there.

My grandparents are currently in the process of putting all of their old home videos onto DVD. They recently sent me footage of the first few years of my life in a care package, and it brought back a lot of sweet memories. When he was younger, my granddaddy built a houseboat by hand, and I grew up spending the majority of my summers doing back flips off its front porch. In a movie of my life, this Craig Morgan song could easily serve as the theme song for my childhood summers.

During the month that I have at home, I have planned to cram in as many of these kinds of uniquely and stereotypically southern activities as I possibly can. These plans include a trip to the Andy Griffith museum in Mount Airy (aka Mayberry) and a Zac Brown Band concert. I only really know one of their songs well, but could any song be more southern than this one?

"What can be more Southern than to obsess about being Southern?"
--Elizabeth Fortson Arroyo

Summer Heat

Summer is DEFINITELY here. It is difficult for me to find words to express just how oppressive the humidity of a Korean summer can be. I step outside, my skin immediately feels wet and my hair rapidly grows to resemble some sort of creature out of a small child's nightmare.

Fortunately, Koreans have a number of tried and true ways to handle the summer heat, and, not surprisingly, most of them involve *food.*



1. Patbingsu
This was actually my first Korean dessert experience upon arriving here, and it made me want to STAY. Patbingsu consists of shaved ice loaded with sweetened red beans, various fruits, candies, and pillowy ddeok, and is often topped off with sweetened condensed milk or ice cream. Mix it up like bibimbap and enjoy!




2. Mul Naengmyon
A favorite in my household growing up, Mul Naengmyon is one of the most popular foods consumed during the Korean summertime. "Naengmyon," literally meaning "cold noodles," consists of buckwheat noodles in a cold beefstock broth. It is most often served in a big metal bowl and topped off with a few thin slices of beef, strips of radish, a hard-boiled egg, cucumber slices, and sliced Asian pear. I usually also like to add a dash of vinegar and some wassabi-like mustard to give it a bit of a kick. This dish is the perfect refresher for a hot summers day.



3. Oi Sobagi
This summertime kimchi is another favorite of mine. The cool, fresh taste of the cucumber with the spicy tang of the crushed red peppers that are hot enough to make you sweat is a surprisingly great combination on a hot summers day.





4.Bosin-tang
Also called gaejang-guk, this dish has a long history of serving as a restorative food during hot summer days, particularly among Korean men. It is the infamous dog meat stew, and I hesitate to post about it, because there is such a stigma attached to the idea of eating man's best friend. Since dogs are in fact pets and close companions to many Koreans, some, especially in younger generations, are very strongly against eating this dish. And even traditionally, while the men enjoyed this delicacy-- believed to increase a man's stamina and considered to be quite a rare treat in days when meat of any kind was scarce-- women often enjoyed a similarly seasoned chicken stew instead. While it may seem counter intuitive that stew would be popular in summer, these kinds of dishes are known for their restorative properties. Plus, it doesn't hurt that their heat induces so much sweating-- the momentary discomfort pays off as the body cools.



5. Mud Fest
The only non-food related item to make my list, the Boryeong Mud Festival takes place every year at Daechon beach off Korea's west coast. This weekend, hundreds of people-- and particularly foreigners-- will flock to the beach to roll around in the tons of mud shipped in especially for the event. From the photos, it looks like it would be the prime place for Girls Gone Wild Korea edition to film, but from what I hear it is actually a relatively clean and innocent, though thoroughly crazy, experience.


Trips to the beach, barbecues, watermelon and waterparks are all also to be found in plenty during Korea's hottest months. And, of course, it is obligatory for me to share with you a summer k-pop treat... this song was specially created as a promo for Korea's biggest waterpark, Caribbean Bay.

Happy Fourth!

Yesterday was quite an international 4th of July celebration for me. Two friends of mine threw a picnic to celebrate America's Independence Day, Canada's Independence Day (July 1st), and a Korean friend's birthday, all wrapped up in one! We enjoyed good company, good weather, and good food. After the picnic, a few of us stayed to play Apples to Apples, watch a movie, and, when it finally got dark out, shoot fireworks in the park. We definitely drew a lot of attention there; a bunch of Korean kids joined us in cheering and waving sparklers, and a group of Americans who saw us-- one of whom turned out to be a North Carolina native-- hurriedly bought some fireworks of their own to add to the festivities. It all made for a really great day full of friends and fun.

I would have to say that for me, though, the absolute BEST treat of the day was the amazing batch of red velvet cupcakes with cream cheese icing that one of our Canadian friends made to celebrate Canada Day.

So yummy!

I haven't been able to do any baking myself over the past year-- oven's are a rare thing in Korean households. So it makes me really excited to know that I will VERY SOON be back in the states and will once again be able to bake lots of sweet treats of my own! In fact, that may be one of the things that I'm most looking forward to doing, so I'll just give you fair warning now-- don't be surprised if this travelogue suddenly transforms itself into a baking blog in about a month's time... :)

Happy Birthday, America!
I can't wait to see you soon!

This guy is awesome

I tend to read a lot of news and other articles on China and North Korea these days. Given where I am living right now, and the current political climate, I guess it would be irresponsible not to. There are many daunting challenges to be faced in this region, and often, the news that I read is far from encouraging. Perhaps it is for that reason that I was so deeply struck by a certain article I recently came across in the Christian Science Monitor. It relays the story of an amazing man, formerly imprisoned by North Korean soldiers, who has now returned to build a university for his former captors.

On a Korean War battlefield in 1950, the young, patriotic Kim Chin-kyung, then just 15, lay limp on the ground, wounded by shrapnel. In the months leading up to that moment, nearly all of the 800 troops in his South Korean Army unit had been wiped out. He wasn't sure if he would make it, either. So he struck a deal with his creator. "I told God that if I survived, I would return the love to my enemies," he says-- his enemies at the time being North Korean and Chinese soldiers. [...Read the full article!!...]

And love them he did. Despite all the naysayers, this man has put everything he has into serving the North Korean and Chinese people. And they have responded favorably in return. Below I've re-pasted some of my favorite quotes from the article. Kim preaches a message of the power of love to change the world-- a message that to many may seem idealistic at best and completely false at worst. But there is nothing at all hollow or empty in what he has accomplished. His actions speak boldly and powerfully, and add undeniable force to his words.

Ask Kim about where he finds his inspiration, and he'll always say "love." The cheerful professor sees love as a force that stretches across borders, with education as a toolbox to apply it.

[...]"Their political system doesn't matter," he says, referring to his first project in China. "If you approach them with love, they will move their hearts."

[...] PUST is funded mostly by aid groups and through Kim's own savings, which he earned from running three small businesses in South Korea and Florida between the 1960s and 1980s and by selling his house and belongings. "I started the businesses to fund the universities," he says. "Peace has a price, and it should be paid by those who have money."

Money, however, was not the deciding factor in Kim's success. Rather, it was his passion for education.

"When I went to China and North Korea, I told them I was not a capitalist or a communist," he says. "I was simply a 'love-ist.' "

I am inspired by this man. His story is a tangible picture of the power in taking bold chances to live out real, passionate and compassionate love. And it has given me a much needed reminder of just how much one person motivated by love can do.

Global English Camp

Many of you reading this probably know well by now about my heart for the people of North Korea. Over the course of the past few months I've had the chance to participate in a number of volunteer opportunities and events that have helped me to learn more about their issues and have allowed me to become more involved in serving the community of North Korean defectors living here in the South. And as I have grown both in knowledge and in genuine love for Korea and its people, my purpose and vision for my time here have evolved, so that lately I have also been spending a great deal of time and effort to lay down the groundwork that will allow me to devote myself more fully to these kinds of efforts when I return next year.

This past week I had the privilege of serving as a lead teacher in the 2010 Global English Camp, an annual initiative of People for Successful Corean Reunification (PSCORE). It was an experience that ranked high among the most meaningful and fulfilling that I have had in my time here in Korea. PSCORE is a NGO that was established as a result of the vision of a small but passionate group of young North Korean defectors, South Korean university students, and foreigners. The organization, now with offices in both D.C. and Seoul, advocates for the human rights of the North Korean people and strives to promote mutual understanding and dialogue about issues of peace and democracy between North and South Korea. They also work to support refugees from the North by equipping them with the skills and tools they need in order to build new lives in South Korea.

The Global English Camp is one program that serves these aims. For one thing, English is the language of success in South Korea, but in North Korea it is a language generally known only by the super-elite. Along with their year-round tutoring program, this English camp is one way for PSCORE to help lessen this gap. The camp was also an opportunity for the North Korean students to learn about the meaning of democracy and come to a better understanding of democratic processes and how they as citizens can participate in them. To this end, the camp held a mock presidential election, as well as offered a number of seminars related to democracy. These included a leadership seminar by a leading Korean university on the meaning of leadership and the definition a true leader, and a lecture about democracy and democratic election by two representatives from the U.S. Department of State. The students also all participated in a quiz-show style game that featured trivia about democracy around the world.

Another main purpose of the camp was to promote dialogue about human rights and reunification between all of the North Korean students, South Korean students, and foreigners in attendance. Two representatives from the Hanns-Seidel Foundation came and gave a talk outlining the successes and challenges of German reunification and how these might be useful in discussions about Korean reunification. There was also a seminar by PSCORE staff on the process of policy making and its role in protecting human rights. After each seminar we were able to break into small groups and discuss these ideas as they relate to the relationship between North Korea, South Korea, and the rest of the world. Though some students had much more advanced English than others, the South Korean students were able to help with translation and vocabulary, so that the language barrier wasn't an issue even in discussing such advanced and challenging topics. I was quite impressed with how well everyone worked together, and how earnestly they desired to understand one another's viewpoints.

One final aim of the camp was to increase global awareness, so there was also one evening where each group did an interactive cultural presentation on a country of their choice. Our group chose to present on Egypt and played a game of charades to teach about Egyptian "firsts." Our final first, meant to be unveiled at the end of the game, was belly dancing. We intended to close out the show with a fun video of some pretty impressive belly dancing, but the internet decided to quit working at just that moment. So, instead, I ended up putting all that time spent searching belly dancing videos to good use and teaching everyone a move called the "snake arms." I'd never even tried it myself before, so it was pretty ridiculous looking I'm sure-- but fun. And the other groups' presentations were all equally, if not more, entertaining. In fact, one of the highlights/ most surreal moments of the entire weekend for me was seeing a bunch of North Koreans line-dancing to "Boot Scootin' Boogie" as a part of their presentation on the American Midwest.

In addition to all of these activities (and other just-for-fun team building ones!), a great deal of our time was spent working in our groups for the mock presidential election-- essentially the central event of the camp. There were four groups who formed our English camp's 4 main political parties. Each of these elected one of their North Korean members to be their presidential candidate. Others had jobs such as head speech writer and PR rep. As a group they created posters, performed exciting and creative campaign events, and participated in a presidential debate. There was also one media group, whose job was to conduct interviews, write press releases, and share news about the presidential race. And lastly, there was the "Electoral Committee." I served as the lead teacher for this group. We were essentially in charge of running the business end of the mock election: creating rules and standards of conduct, designing and mediating the debates, evaluating the campaigning sessions, organizing the logistics of the election, counting votes, and conducting the inaugural ceremony. It was a ton of work, but my members pulled together well and made it all happen.

Our members were quite diverse, and included an assistant teacher from California, four South Korean university students, an international student from China, and four students from North Korea. One of these North Korean students lived in Georgia for two years and demonstrated a passionate love for beer and politics; another, though initially quiet and unsure, over the course of the camp revealed himself to be extraordinarily hardworking and brave; our third student was open from the get-go, loving to laugh, flirt, and engage in meaningful conversations; and the fourth, an aspiring teacher, had a reflective and honest spirit that was remarkably infectious. We all got to know one another surprisingly well in such a short period of time, and every single person was able to bring something unique and valuable to the group. What these students have overcome and the ways that they are adapting and striving to use their painful experiences for the sake of their fellow countrymen was beyond inspiring.

I learned a lot from the perspectives of my peers, and really appreciated the fact that everyone brought different ideas and life experiences to the table. Often in talks about North Korea it is easy for those of us who are focusing on the plight of the refugees to vilify certain outside groups or governments-- especially the Chinese. This is because the only means of escape from North Korea is to cross the border into China, but the government there views escapees as criminals and sends them back into the hands of North Korean officials to be imprisoned and often tortured (or worse) if discovered. The Chinese government also refuses citizenship to children born of North Korean mothers, leaving a number of these children stateless, orphaned, and without education. So, in light of this, I thought it was especially beneficial to our group not only to have the input of four refugees who had recently escaped via the underground route through China, but also to have such a thoughtful Chinese student among us who could share with us both her love for her country and her care for the people of North Korea, and who was willing to offer her perspective as a part of our dialogue.

It honestly was such a blessing and a privilege for me to be able to be a part of this camp; there is so much more that I could say about it. I was challenged and put outside of my comfort zone, and at the same time I really felt I was completely in my element there. The feedback from the students was very positive, and, as I said to all the camp participants during our candlelight vigil on the final night, being around such a genuine, caring, and intelligent group-- and having the opportunity to witness their passion and compassion-- gave me a lot of hope for the future of the Korean peninsula.

I know there has been a lot of gum flapping in the US media about North Korea and war lately, and I understand the fears that play into that, but to be perfectly honest, I really just long for the day when we as a world community become as concerned with the human rights violations in the North as we are with any potential nuclear attack. Thankfully, this camp and the people who participated in it are each in their own way bringing us a few small steps closer to seeing that become a reality.

Now that the US and Korea are out...

... I'm all about BRAZIL! In solidarity with the people of Haiti, I will be supporting Brazil for the remainder of the World Cup. Don't quite follow the logic? I'll explain. Since deciding to go to Haiti, I've been keeping up with the blogs of volunteers who are currently on the ground with the organization that I'll be working for. Here's an excerpt from a post by one of them describing Haiti's enthusiastic support for Brazil and the reason behind it:

I began asking around about why the Haitians LOVE Brazil soccer so much and the answer was really touching. On January 12th when the earthquake shook this country upside down, the entire Haitian soccer team was killed. Apparently they were meeting at the time at their practice facility and the coach stepped out for a moment when the quake hit and the building fell, crushing all of them…leaving the coach to endure the loss completely on his own... With the death of the team also went hope and an image of Haiti that was strong. A team that represented courage and passion for these people. So when they lost their team, they needed a new one to rally around. And according to the locals here, they have always loved the Brazil team because they creamed the Haitians-and if you’re good enough to cream the Haitians, you’re good enough to have their support. So it was no question then who the Haitians would rally around for the 2010 World Cup. And that they did. At the bar on Sunday when Brazil scored each of their 3 goals, it felt like I was in South Africa-watching a celebration worth sharing.

Dysfunctional

I'm a week late in posting this Father's Day tribute, but I recently came across the following quote on Don Miller's blog and was moved to write about it. I don't necessarily entirely agree with the whole premise of the post, but this quote stuck out at me in a pretty profound way.

"If God has something specific for you, you’ll know, I promise. But if He is setting a box of crayons down in front of you (a box of crayons called life) then by all means draw. He’s taught you right from wrong, good from bad, beautiful from profane, so draw. He will be with you, proud of you, cheering you on, so draw. He loves you, so draw in the inspiration of the knowledge of His love. Draw a purple horse, a red ocean, a nine-legged dog, it doesn’t matter. Lets stop being so afraid. Lets live, and show the world what it really means to be grateful we don’t live in a dysfunctional family."

By a lot of people's standards, my earthly family would easily qualify as a dysfunctional one. My family has fought and struggled my entire life. But we have also LOVED one another immensely. And the quality of my Heavenly Father described in the quote above is one that has been modeled and taught to me by my earthly father throughout the course of my entire life.

Time and again my dad has preached this same message over me. Just last month, when I was falling into doubt after making the decision to go to Haiti, questioning whether it was really God's will and desire that I was seeking in going there, or if it was actually my own self-will, my father was there to speak this exact truth into my life-- he reminded me that God wants me to live, to follow my passions, to be bold and fearless. That I have been given the freedom by my Heavenly Father to love and serve in crazy ways. And that in light of that, nothing else matters.

And it turns out that this is a truth that I can hold to and believe, in large part, because my father here on this earth has impressed it upon me so heavily. For this and for so many things, Dad, I'm thankful to you.

And cheers to our dysfunctional family, because God sure has blessed me richly through it!

PLANS!!

After MUCH debate, a few complications, and a flight change, I have finally set firm dates for my plans in the upcoming months. I can't say for sure that these won't change, but at this point I certainly don't intend for them to!

THE PLAN:

July 31st- Aug. 11th HOME!!
Aug. 12th(ish)-15th GEORGIA
Aug.15th- 22nd Back in Durham/Chapel Hill for a week
Aug. 23rd- 27th CHARLESTON
Aug. 28th-31st St. Petersburg, FL with my parents and brother
Aug. 31st Arrive and get settled into my compound in HAITI!!
Sept. 1st Volunteer orientation
Sept. 2nd- Nov. 27th Work in the IDP camps
Nov. 28th Back home in time to spend the holidays with my family

There is not a single part of the plan that I am not literally jumping-out-of-my-chair excited about! I'm beside myself with gratitude to my beautiful family and friends for your continual prayers and support-- I can't wait to see many of you *very* soon!!

World Cup Fever

Korea’s got World Cup fever… bad. Back in 2002, Korea had the honor of hosting the Cup AND placing 4th. Since then, the nation has been a particularly soccer crazy one—and I am completely loving every minute of it! I was in China for the last World Cup, in Jordan for the 2008 Euro Cup, and am now experiencing this year’s World Cup in Korea—- and though I’ve haven’t exactly been planning it out that way, I am starting to think I should turn this into a tradition, because it really is GREAT being in a country that actually *cares* about soccer for this event!

Soccer and the excitement of the World Cup, perhaps more than any other single sport, truly brings the world together. But, being from the one country who doesn’t share the rest of the planet’s intense love and passion for the game, I have always felt a bit excluded from that experience. Because while Korea has pop stars and Olympian figure skaters getting together to make special songs just for the event...



....we in American have Stephen Colbert making this:

The Colbert Report	Mon - Thurs 11:30pm / 10:30c
Sport Report - Soccer Debate - Marc Fisher & Mark Starr
www.colbertnation.com
Colbert Report Full Episodes Political Humor Fox News

I personally have always gotten really into the games—and the emotional intensity surrounding me here only fuels my longstanding love for the sport. The US’s lucky draw with England completely wore down my nerves (and kind of made me want to punch things at times), while Korea’s upset over Greece was really exciting, and had me, along with the rest of Korea, feeling pretty elated. Random shouts of “DAE HAN MIN GUK!!” and “KOREA FIGHTING!” could be heard from *literally* every street corner that night, and not at all infrequently even in the days that followed. Ji-Sung Park, the super energetic 5’9” Manchester United midfielder who all of the Korean girls go ga-ga for, and all of the Korean boys aspire to be, is arguably the most loved and revered person in this country right now.



The most personally significant thing about this whole experience for me, though, has been my coming to the realization in watching the first round that I have developed the same sense of ownership and feelings of pride towards Korea’s national team that I feel towards the US. It has made me recognize just how attached and connected I have become to my mother’s homeland in my time here—which is great, because that’s exactly what I had hoped would begin to happen when I made the decision to come.

...And in other related news, I told my students that if any of them could learn this dance and perform it for me before the World Cup is over I would give them a big prize.



No one has taken me up on it yet, but I *have* spotted a few groups of kids practicing :P

Korea fighting!!! v(^_^)v

Babies, Weddings, and Funerals

Seems that lots of monumental events have been happening in the lives of those around me here in Korea lately.

Two close friends of mine have recently gotten engaged and are getting married in just two short months. They came to Korea around the same time I did and met one another here, so I have had the opportunity to witness their relationship from the very beginning, and it's really special. Another two friends of mine-- a really great couple from Nigeria-- are expecting their first baby soon. And, in addition to experiencing the excitement involved in planning for bachelorette excursions and baby showers with my foreign friends, I've recently also had the opportunity to experience both the joy of a wedding and the sadness of a funeral in the lives of two of my Korean coworkers.

I've gotten a lot of questions about these last two events in particular, and it might disappoint some of you to hear me report that there is not much of a difference between a Korean wedding and an American one. Nor is there much of a difference between a Korean funeral and an American one. Undoubtedly this is largely due to the recent westernization of the Korean hemisphere, but I also think that, more significantly and on a more fundamental level, weddings and funerals the world over have certain qualities about them that are simply universal.

For instance, western countries and other "modernized" nations like Korea may tend to emphasize a movie-like version of romantic love in marriage, while other peoples do not believe that to be the institution's main purpose, but I have never heard of a culture in which a wedding does not represent on some level the satisfaction of a human longing for relationship and connectivity. Whether this is framed on the individual level, or on a familial or even communal level, it is still something that rings true throughout every society and culture. Likewise, a funeral-- whether it is done by viewing the body as in the US, cremating it as in India, or by bowing respectfully before a photo of the deceased (no dead bodies involved) as in Korea-- is always a way for the living to process death. Death is a part of all our lives, and it is a universally difficult, complex, and transcendent experience that needs navigating.

I imagine that no matter where in the world I travel, weddings and funerals will never be so foreign as to fail to reflect these two aspects of human need and experience. And all the rest is mere packaging and fluff. It may be beautiful packaging and the differences may be exciting to learn about-- certainly a joy to embrace and experience. But for me, the most beautiful experience of all, and the one worth traveling the world over to have, is to stand in a crowd and feel the same joy and mourning reflected across every kind of linguistic and cultural boundary that should to divide us, and to know that it is our shared identity as images of our Creator that connects our hearts.

The New Dork

The Korea Times posted an article yesterday touting Twitter as a significant force in this week's elections. While I knew that Korean people knew about Twitter, because I have often been asked if I was on it-- usually before being barraged with questions about Obama-- I didn't know that many Korean nationals actually use the site. Though the article seemed to possibly be overstating the case-- a 400,000 person presence on Twitter significantly turned the outcome of elections?-- it brought me back mentally to 2008 in the US and to the feeling of familiarity and home.

I suppose, though, that I shouldn't have been as struck by this as I was. After all, one of the top 3 aspects of Korean culture that foreigners here name as most notable is TECHNOLOGY. I was initially surprised when I learned this-- I probably would have said something about kimchi, or the Korean work ethic myself-- but that is probably just because I am completely technologically challenged and so do not have my eyes open to that sort of thing; my grandparents and I relate well when it comes to stuff like computers and text messages. With a little research, however, I came to learn that Korea is in fact the seventh most wired country in the world, and is ranked second only to Hong Kong in Asia according to Forbes magazine, which doles out its rankings not only on based on tech-usage, but tech-friendly government policies. So it seems that Korea and technology experience a mutual loving relationship.

I have certainly seen this mutual embrace reflected by my students. These kids are all about their computer games. It is literally all they claim to do, aside from study, sleep and eat. In my classes, it has even gotten to the point that anytime I am teaching a lesson related to hobbies, I qualify that speaking about computer games is off limits, just so they have the opportunity to learn some new vocabulary. Even so, their resolve to talk about computers is unshakable. Today, I asked a student what kind of house he wanted to have when he grew up, and he answered that he wanted a house with four P.C. rooms devoted solely to gaming. At home, a statement like that might have earned that student a few less-than-kind snickers, but here it garnered a roomful of enthusiastic nods of agreement.

I'm always looking for ways to harness this enthusiasm for technology to excite the students about English. Recently, I've been translating songs into text lingo and having them compete to decode the songs and guess the name of the artist. I've also come across this remake of Empire State of Mind called The New Dork- Entrepreneur State of Mind. The students in my advanced classes completely get a kick out of it, because the lyrics all refer to a world they can relate to well.

Election Day

Two more days off of work this week. It's kind of strange having so many teaching days canceled so close together-- and inconvenient, since we are nearing the end of the semester and there doesn't ever quite seem to be enough time to accomplish all that is required. But, given how busy I am right now both at work and with other responsibilities, it has been helpful in a way to get a little bit of time to devote to planning, prioritizing and organizing. I feel a bit more on top of things, and not as much like I am playing catch-up.

Another perk of the vacation days-- they mark the end of Korea's very... um, Korean?... campaigning process for local elections. Tomorrow is Election day (by the way, try saying that with a Korean accent-- l's are r's-- and that's what I've been hearing all week), which is treated as a national holiday, giving everyone the day off in order to take away any excuse not to vote.

Election season is much shorter here than what we experience in the US, but it packs a bit more of a punch. For the past few weeks, every street corner, subway station and open public space has been filled with people, mostly middle-aged, in various *matching neon-colored outfits* doing *choreographed dances and cheers* in front of giant screens that display the face of their chosen candidate. Yep. I'm really sorry I don't have pictures or video to share this phenomenon with you, but if you are picturing it and it looks more than slightly ridiculous, you are probably imagining it correctly. Now add to that image fleets of oddly designed colorful trucks that drive up and down the streets blaring music and rhetoric, most often manned by a pair of women-- dressed of course in their candidate's signature color-- riding in the back to dance, wave, smile and bow at every passer-by... and there you have a pretty accurate picture of my daily surrounding for the past month.

I've definitely enjoyed it while it's lasted, and I definitely think I will equally enjoy it when it is over.

:)


UPDATE: Here are a few photos of Korean election campaigners that I stole from a friend. They don't completely give an adequate picture of the phenomenon I described, but they do give a small taste.

Inarticulate...

It is in my nature to search for answers-- to always strive to make sense out of things; to find meaning in paradox. But sometimes-- often times-- I can't. And right now, as I look forward to my trip to Haiti and as I delve deeper in my knowledge of both the spirit and the suffering of the people there, I feel that inability perhaps as acutely as I ever have in my life. I am living in a kind of in between world-- knowing that I am about to experience something in which I will certainly be changed, knowing that my heart is necessarily already being given to people I have never met, and yet remaining committed to my day to day life in the here and now. And each time I sit to write about the tangle of anticipation, fears, hopes, sadness, uncertainty, sureness of purpose, burdens and blessings that all seem to somehow move together fluidly through my spirit during this time of preparation, words fail me.

In many ways music has been a lifeline for me through this time. One song in particular has given me rest by articulating what I feel I cannot. Its lyrics are unafraid of paradox, of ellipses, of the unanswered. And when I feel incapable of doing it myself, this song speaks the turmoil of my heart out into the world, and speaks the turmoil of the world into my heart.



Oh my God, can I complain?
You take away my firm belief,
And graft my soul upon your grief.

Oh my God.

Happy Birthday Buddha

I think Korea in May has the greatest number of holidays that I have ever experienced in a single month. Not that I'm complaining.

This past Friday we had the day off (once again) for Buddha's birthday-- a very festive day in a country that has historically been largely Buddhist. Around 15-20 percent of the population currently identifies Buddhism as their religion, but the cultural impact of the Buddhist tradition, especially prior to the relatively recent rise of Christianity in Korea, is much more widespread than these numbers suggest. Festivals surrounding this holiday, considered by many Buddhist's to be the most important holiday in their tradition, have lasted the better half of the month-- the largest being Seoul's Lotus Lantern Festival.


I spent most of the day in Samcheon-dong, home to Bongeun Temple, where, as a part of the festival, the monks featured a colorful exhibition of handmade traditional lanterns. The streets in Samcheon-dong have long been my favorite place in Seoul to spend a laid-back afternoon of shopping or just general meandering. The neighborhood is a seamless melding together of historical Korean landmarks, districts and homes with quaint galleries, shops, cafes and restaurants that often give off (what I imagine to be) a rather European feel.


There are also numerous "tea gardens" in the area, which offer the setting of a traditional Korean tea house, while allowing patrons to enjoy the open air and a beautiful view of traditional homes- or even a Joseon-dynasty palace- against the backdrop of low Korean mountains. I soaked in the view while sipping on strawberry flavored "five-taste tea," a sweet drink made from the fruit of the Chinese magnolia vine, chilled and served with ice cubes that had tiny flower buds frozen inside.

It was lovely, and I don't know that I could have come up with a more idyllic way to have spent the holiday. Days like Friday leave me thoroughly convinced that moving into Seoul when I return to Korea would be the right choice for me.

The Dark Underbelly of Teacher's Day

The Month of Family, as May is often referred to in Korea, includes Children's Day, Parent's Day, and finally Teacher's Day on May 15th. The inclusion of teachers in a month set aside to honor the most intimate and foundational of social systems reflects the high regard with which the teaching profession has long been held in Korean society. And while this sentiment may be waning somewhat among younger generations, teachers are still widely acknowledged as one of the most important influences on a young person's development and ability to succeed in life. Teacher's Day is a day set apart to acknowledge the hard work that teachers invest in the future of the nation.

The respect and honor traditionally shown to teachers has, of course, a direct correlation to the extraordinarily high emphasis placed on education in Korea-- something I have mentioned here many times before. And with the exponential rise in educational and professional competition featuring so prominently in South Korea's recent history, it comes as no surprise that this enthusiasm and competitiveness has infiltrated the celebration of Teacher's Day as well.

My extensive Wikipedia research on the subject [;)] returned the following...

Originally [Teacher's Day in Korea] was started by a group of red-cross youth team members who visited their sick ex-teachers at hospitals. The national celebration ceremony had been stopped between 1973 and 1982 and it resumed after that. On the celebration day, teachers are usually presented with carnations by their students, and both enjoy a shorter school day. Ex-students pay their respects to the former teachers by visiting them and handing them a carnation. Many schools now close on Teacher's Day because of the rampant bribery implicit in the expensive gifts often given to teachers.

At my own school, Teacher's Day is treated just as any other school day, a conscious decision having been made to avoid any school-wide celebration or endorsement of the day for exactly the reason mentioned above-- bribery and extravagant gifts have in the past caused scandal and dissension among the parents and within the community.

As a native English-speaking teacher with little say over the children's grades, I am fortunately not impacted by these kinds of politics, and for me it has proved a sweet day. Knowing that they will not see me tomorrow (school is held every other Saturday, but I only work Monday through Friday on any given week), a few of my students have given me gifts of cards, candy, and various little origami creations. They also asked to sing for me in class this morning, and while I know that atleast 80% of their motivation in this was to avoid having to do work for the day, it nonetheless put a smile on my face.

Happy Parent's Day/ Mother's Day!

Parent's Day in Korea and Mother's Day in the US happen to fall on the same weekend. Parent's Day, as you might have guessed, is essentially like a Mother's Day and Father's Day rolled up into one, and follows only a few days after Children's Day. On Parent's Day, children and adults alike typically present their parents with a gift and a carnation each.

Right now, it is still Mother's Day in the U.S.-- a day I have been looking forward to for the past few weeks. This morning I surprised my mother and grandmother with a video gift of myself singing a traditional Korean song that I have been working hard to learn. (Woohoo! Korean lessons paying off!) I thought of posting the video here, but my rendition is really something that only a mother's ears could love. Instead, I've posted the lyrics and translation below... translates a little awkwardly, but is really a beautiful song and a sweet tribute to a mother's self-sacrificial love.

*Transcript and translation:*

낳실제 괴로움 다잊으시고

She forgets all her pain when she gives birth

기를제 밤 낮으로 애쓰는 마음

She does everything to raise me day and night

진 자리 마른자리 갈아뉘시며

She always finds a warm dry place for me

손발이 다닳도록 고생하시네

She goes through so much hardship in her life

하늘아래 그무엇이 넓다하리요

What would be greater under the sky

어머님의 희생은 가이없어라

Her sacrifice is limitless

P.S. Shout out to my three AMAZING best friends who graduated from UNC today!! Julia, Jamie, and Freda-- so proud and excited for you girls! You are my role models-- can't wait to witness all of the amazing things you are going to do with your futures. The world has no idea what's coming... :) Love, with all my heart!

HAITI: Art for Change

The following is an email I received from the president of GVN, the organization through whom I will be traveling to Haiti in August. I read it and felt compelled to share.

Dear Mary,

The devastation that occurred in Haiti touched every one of us and I think we have all dealt with the pain and sadness in our own way. From volunteering to fundraising to prayers, each of us are giving what we can. Today I would like to introduce you to Kelsey Montague, a remarkable young woman who is helping in the best way she knows how - through her art. Kelsey has created a series of Haiti pen and ink drawings exclusively for GVN Foundation. Her unique work incorporates 'drawings within drawings', giving each print multiple meanings, emotions and perspectives. The drawings were inspired by both the plight of the Haitian people and by their indomitable spirit.

"After the news broke about the earthquake, and the immense loss and suffering of the Haitian people, I felt a terrible sense of helplessness. I wanted to contribute in any way that I could, and the most natural way for me was through art," says Kelsey.

"I was incredibly fortunate to travel to Haiti and to see the fortitude of a people who have lost so much but have such a will to recover and try to re-build their lives. I was most struck by the beauty and kindness of the Haitian people. On our last day in Port-au-Prince, after a gruelling 10-hour day, we were meeting with a group of GVN volunteers when the camp leader leaned over to tell me that some of the Haitian women who were cooks in the compound had rushed to prepare a meal for us. Even though we had only been there an hour, they had managed to put together a feast. These women had endured so much loss, and yet they wanted to share with us. I was both humbled and inspired by their generosity.

"It's easy to feel overwhelmed by the situation in Haiti because the needs are so great, but this is exactly why we must get involved. When a nation of people has lost everything, even the smallest gesture is a great gift. Every effort, no matter how large or small, will have an impact, whether through donations, volunteering or spreading the word and encouraging friends and family to get involved," says Kelsey.

The common theme running throughout Kelsey's drawings is the message of hope for a people who have endured so much, yet have such strength, passion and faith in the future. Please show your support by sharing her artwork with your friends and family or by purchasing one of the drawings which will give the gift of hope to so many. 50% of the sale price of each print will go directly to the Haiti Relief Fund. [The other 50% goes directly to the artist.]

HAITI - ART FOR CHANGE: http://www.gvnfoundation.org/programs/art_for_change/


With gratitude,

Colin Salisbury
Founder and President

Global Volunteer Network
http://www.globalvolunteernetwork.org

In Celebration of Children's Day

International Children's Day is officially recognized across the world on June 1st, but in South Korea is celebrated on May 5th.

And it is a BIG deal here. EVERYONE has the day off on Children's Day. It is a day for parents to shower their children with gifts and take them on excursions to zoos, movies, parades, amusement parks, and even air shows. All of Korea caters to children on this day, with stores giving away free treats and having all kinds of characters-- from Batman to Hello Kitty-- line the streets to take pictures with the kids. It made me happy to be able to walk around all day and see kids being celebrated and loved on. And in a culture that requires so much of it's men in the workforce, it was especially great to see so many fathers take this opportunity to spend time with their children and families.

I also learned a tid-bit about the history of Children's Day today that took my appreciation for the holiday to even greater heights. Apparently, under Japanese colonial rule, May 5th was celebrated as "Boy's Day," but in 1975 the Korean government replaced that holiday with "Children's Day," making the simple statement that, "Even though many families may still want a son, since a son must look after his parents when they get old, we are all important." Thus, Children's Day is a marker of Korea's progress towards embracing the value of *ALL* it's children, and is a tangible picture of this country's desire to overcome cultural norms and stereotypes that have served to devalue women and girls. Knowledge of this history lends even deeper value and meaning to the holiday, and certainly deepens my own love and appreciation for the fact that my mother chose to celebrate Korean Children's Day for my sister and I growing up.

So, in honor of Children's Day in Korea and in keeping with the values that the holiday affirms-- those of equality and the right to life and happiness for ALL children-- I want to share this video from UNICEF with you, and ask you to join me in prayer for the children of our world. (BTW-- the precious faces at 1:32 belong to Korean children, dressed in hanboks, or traditional Korean garb. A-dorable.)



And, on a very directly related note, I'd also like to share and recommend a book that I have recently read. The words "powerful" and "gut-wrenching" fall far short of an apt description for this autobiographical account of Ishmael Beah's experiences as a child soldier in Sierra Leone. To coerce a child into a life of slavery and violence is one of the worst violations against humanity imaginable... And on a day when I am surrounded by the faces of so many children filled with life and joy at the opportunity to simply enjoy being children, I cannot help but mourn for those who have been robbed of that same right. Read this book-- it will be impossible for you to walk away unchanged.

Book Reccomendation for Travelers

It's midterm time at Choji Middle School, which means I have an unusual amount of free time on my hands. And taking this reprieve as encouragement, I have finally gotten around to reading The Art of Travel by Alain de Botton-- a book that has been collecting dust on my shelf for quite a while but that ended up requiring no more than one subway ride and half a morning to finish.

"A jewel of civility, wit and insight; de Botton has produced wondrous essays. An invitation to hyperbole.... A volume to give one an expansive sense of wonder." -The Baltimore Sun

I'm glad I picked this book up-- it is thoughtful, entertaining, and philosophically rich. There are certain passages, especially from essays titled "On the Sublime," and "On Possessing Beauty," to which I'm sure I will return again and again. For any person who has the spirit of a traveler or artist, or who wonders what it might be like to discover enthusiasm and joy in both the fantastic and the everyday, this is a book well worth checking out.

April Showers and May Flowers

I have no way to talk about springtime without bombarding you with a million different cliches. Even to simply say "I love spring" seems overused and hollow. But I'm kind of okay with that. In fact, I embrace it. Because the truth is that I DO love spring, and in this season I myself transform into a living, breathing cliche; all I want to do is skip through fields of wildflowers in a flowy white skirt and barefeet (not something you'd want to, or could do, where I live in Korea, by the way).

There seems to be something intrinsic to this season that brings out wild and beautiful desires in my spirit. It awakens my heart to a deep and joy-filled thirst-- thirst for change, for freshness, for freedom and life. It is a thirst that too often lays dormant in the pursuit of comfort and warmth accompanying those long (and, this year, longer than usual) winter months, but that every year, by God's grace given in the changing seasons, refreshes me and brings a new light to my vision of the world around me. Springtime brings with it a reminder of who I am, and points me to the hope, beauty and transforming power of my God.

From the day of my arrival in this country, I have been looking forward to experiencing this season here. Springtime is a source of great national pride for Koreans-- even as early as last summer, when asked how I liked Korea, I was frequently met with, "Oh, well, if you like it now, just wait until SPRING." And I have not been disappointed-- it truly is beautiful. Spring in Korea is marked by blossoming cherry trees at every turn and various flower festivals held in nearly every city. The most popular festivals showcase apricot blossoms, the Japanese dogwood, and, of course, cherry blossoms. Korea can't seem to get enough of them, and neither can I!



Here in Ansan we had our own TULIP festival. Tulips are one of my favorite flowers-- probably second only to pink and red daisies-- and this festival did not disappoint. A beautiful and seemingly endless array of the brightly colored flowers were planted alongside the man-made river that runs through our city, drawing out hundreds of couples and families with strollers and pets in tow to enjoy this season's first real weekend of warmth and sun.

(photos courtesy of the lovely and amazing Anlee :) )

The festival was certainly a nice reprieve from all of the concrete, and, though it was not a field of wildflowers for me to prance through, it still hit me like a breath of fresh air. Because while there is a part of my heart that can only be touched by things that grow wild and unruly, I have also come to realize that there is a unique and particular kind of beauty to be found in a garden of flowers that have been cultivated and toiled over.

I credit C.S. Lewis' Four Loves for waking me up to this beauty. In that book, Lewis uncovers in a well-tended garden a metaphor for love. Embedded in the essential qualities of the garden there is on the one hand a sense of the absolute necessity of the gardener's hard work and care, at the same time that there is also an overwhelming sense that this work pales beside the beauty of the cultivated thing itself-- the thing whose source of energy, life and glory are born out of nature rather than human hands. In the same way, our diligent and often cumbersome toil is necessary in order to maintain and show love, but, ultimately, the source and glory in any display of love, as in a garden, is not our own, but our Father and Creator's.

This analogy resonates powerfully with me. It also gives voice to the reason that I chose the title and header image of this blog to accompany one another. I am thankful for Lewis' ability to articulate and shed light on something that I feel but could not have adequately expressed, and so leave you with his words rather than my own:

"It is no disparagement to a garden to say that it will not fence and weed itself, nor prune its own fruit trees, nor roll and cut its own lawns. A garden is a good thing but [keeping itself] is not the sort of goodness it has. It will remain a garden, as distinct from a wilderness, only if someone does all these things to it. Its real glory is of quite a different kind. The very fact that it needs constant weeding and pruning bears witness to that glory. It teems with life. It glows with colour and smells like heaven and puts forward at every hour of a summer day beauties with man could never have created and could not even, on his own resources, have imagined... And when the garden is in its full glory the gardener's contributions to that glory have still been in a sense paltry compared with those of nature. Without life springing from the earth, without rain, light and heat descending from the sky, he could do nothing. When he has done all, he has merely encouraged here and discouraged there, powers and beauties that have a different source. "

May you all find joy and life in springtime, wherever you are :)